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post #1 of 67Old02-18-2008, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Well this has been a bit of an ongoing and re-thinking and even more re-thinking. How am I going to fit a home cinema into a small room and make it look perfectly formed?
After trying one room with partly done with surrounds already fitted to the sidewalls and rear wall and many trail and error attempts using different surround configurations to find the perfect solution, or idea that works.
The rest of the text and pictures of my up and downs in the flowing posts are from the JBL Lansing Heritage site, I'll continue here and on the JBL site, until my small but perfectly formed home cinema is finished, so here it is.
Small but perfectly formed.
The new JBL home cinema

01-21-2008, 10:21 PM
After trying two rooms for the JBL home cinema I found the one with the longest length to be a troublesome type and so I have settled on a smaller room.
One was the (chimney breast) that stuck out mid way in the room, by (18 depth) by (61 width), so I decided to abandon the room with the 15 foot length and go with a more easier room that will still need a few basic modifications done to it.
Flooring
I plan to make a secondary floor for the (JBL home cinema) to help with vibrations from LCR surrounds, sub bass extension and LFE.1.
Bass is fairly neutral due to the concrete flooring I guess, less (boom), just a natural sounding tone, unlike the last place, where it was a bit bass heavy at the back.
What you see here is only temporarily, this will nether be placed at the back of room around summertime, when I have the budget to buy a few professional 19 racks, Samson, studio racks.
Room's dimensions are
Length 11 feet10
Width 10 feet 9
Height 7 feet 7
Yeah that's small and I plan to shorten the height by has much as (2 ½ inches) with (2x2 timbre) and (15mm MDF or other) for the top part of the flooring. It shouldn't cost no more than £80.00 the MDF will be the costly part of the material but not as much as the timbre beams as I only need around 6 or 7 spaced out evenly, over its length.
JBL control 1 fall in stand to attention!
Here's my surround arsenal of battle troops ready to provide all the trills and spills on the surround channels.


JBL control 5 I must say sound better in a room with concrete flooring, this helps to eliminate rattles and buzzing sounds! Not to mention sub bass and LFE.1 frequencies.
Its kinder difficult to get a wide angle of the front because of the field of depth, the camera can only see what it can see, I can get very tight angles, but the sides are cropped off a bit.
Rubber matting
Now this would be great to place underneath the (timbre beams) or more rather the timber beams placed on top to add a little extra isolation.
Door
Door to the JBL home cinema room, will hath to be switched around to opened in the opposite direction, due to the raised flooring.
Platform
Horizontal platform for the front loudspeakers LCR will be placed 1 above the TV monitor and angled downwards, the length of the platform will extend the room's width, depth of the platform will be the same as the JBL 4645 sub 18 to keep it flush.
Surrounds?
That is the question, what am I to do with 10 JBL control 1, now I can still place these on the sidewalls and rear wall and a few on the ceiling. I'm thinking I can set:
x2 for sidewall
x2 for centre back surround
x4 for height surround when available
And that's pushing it, not quite to the original plan as I hoped and planed for, which was x16 I think?
Anyway all this, will be done over the course of the summertime no rush and there is a slim budget, as I have to mange other priorities that kinder remain on the top, but there will be a slow transformation.
Window
There's only one in the JBL home cinema that will be blocked up with two layers of MDF cut to size. First off I'll place a window blind in front, to give the illusion on the outside that I have the blinds closed for privacy, which isn't far from the truth.
First layer of MDF will have a small bit of timber placed around the outside, then attached to the (window frame) securely. Next I'll place a thin layer of (rock wool) inside it securely. Last off the second layer of MDF will be screwed to the other piece. This should reduce the traffic noise, as too what sound pressure level I have no data on this as for now, I'll hath to wait until I get around to doing it.
I'll take RTA readings with SPL db level metre, for a few hours note the average and the install the frame, after which I can take more readings and see if there's been a reduced noise level, as the traffic around here is noisy during the night. Also there's an airport nearby, Hurn international, with a few jets taking off and approaching as well.
The roof, now there's nothing I can do about the roof, I think its (sound) so there's no need to look that, unless I can hear (heavy rainfall) but since I've been here, I haven't noticed it, with the past rainfall.
Additional absorption DIY

Jbl Speaker Driver Download


(Bass tarps) is out of the question, by the time I've stuck those in the room, I won't have room to swing a cat around! So adsorption panels placed on the wall surfaces will suffice to add further adsorption.
(Rock wool) will be used for the panels, a soft layer placed onto a thin layer of MDF along with a (colourful fabric) for cosmetic appearance.
Interior decorative lighting system
Neon lighting will be the theme a basic red green and blue placed around the room in a hoarse shoe configuration that will be concealed near to the ceilings curve.
This will have a computerized controller when turned on will cycle though a sequence, on delay, dimming one colour and fading in the next colour, and so on.
12 volt neon is the simplest, the same type that is used for cars.
I don't even have a seat to sit on, I'm sat here typing, sat on a JBL HT-1F and two pillows and my backside fills buggered LOL!
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post #2 of 67Old02-18-2008, 05:45 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Update on the project I popped into good ole Columbia timbre yard this morning to get some estimates on timber beams
2x2 was around of the top of my head 70p per metre sounds good.
15mm MDF around £17.00 pounds plus vat, a few bob. The sheets are 8 feet by 4 feet sounds wicked to me, this is going to work. Now all I need is to make it though a couple of months and then pop on down the road, and its just 20 minutes walking and only 3 minutes or less by car.
They said they can do free delivery, sound good because that's going to weigh a bit or two all that bulk.
I guess they'll be a few off-cuts with the MDF to fit into small parts of the flooring construction, so I'm also figuring I might need to spend somewhere in the region of.
Well I guess my prediction was little off by a small margin of around £80.00 for the whole lot, but if this can be done for less than a round figure of £100.00, that would be okay.
£68.00 4 sheets of MDF
£85.00 5 sheets of MDF
I've placed a Blue Neon light behind the sofa for chilling cool colour, in the mean time.
post #3 of 67Old02-18-2008, 05:50 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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LOL I guess Kevin O'Connell knows how to apply the right amount of low end to, buzz the audience. This had me starching my head for a few minutes? I was looking at the right-hand side JBL control 5 while the sub bass extension was extending the low end from LCRS. The tone was down at around 40Hz.


The JBL control 5 wasn't at fault, so where in the hell is coming from? I then muted all directional channels and LFE.1 leaving only the sub bass extension playing the low end from LCRS, and I could still hear this elusive buzzing sound, now this starting to get personal.
After standing back and looking at the front, I then twigged onto where it was coming from, the (vent). As I approached it and while playing back the same sequence, over and over again, I placed my finger on the plastic vent cover, and like magic it disappeared.

Well now all I need is something to place between the vent flaps to prevent the moving parts vibrating or buzzing. I cut a small piece of cardboard and folded it, and then placed it between one of the vent gaps, and then played the scene over again.
Sigh, well that's more like it yeah. So you just never can tell what is vibrating or buzzing In that special JBL room of yours and a little quick thinking can solve it in the simplest of ways. Now starman can hum and rumble without the buzzing.
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post #4 of 67Old02-18-2008, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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S
urround issue this afternoon on where to place all those JBL control 1 surrounds? I'm kinder feeling adventurous this evening and thou I'd like to go with plan A and place them along the wall surfaces, that option is still widely open.
I'm thinking I can still buy a few more JBL control 1 later on and place them on the side and rear wall. Combination and configuration layout of the surrounds can be as follows.
Option 1 Three on each side with four placed on the back part of the ceiling area.
Option 2 four on each side with two placed on the back part of ceiling area.
How will it sound in relation to the film, as some sound images hath to make sense. It wouldn't make sense to me if I heard the Anakin Skywalker's lightsaber coming from slightly above me from the centre back, would it?
Okay since I haven't played that film here as of yet, I'll play the sound bite moment in sort jiffy, and see where I stand with surround placement and with a stroke of wit and luck, I might be able to get them fitted to the ceiling before the clock strikes 12, otherwise I'll turn into a pumpkin.
Just kidding rushing results in injurers occurring, and I need to take this a step at a time, otherwise, I might end back up where I started from.
I'll place one on the back part of the ceiling to start with and note the differences with Star Wars episode 2 Attack of the Clones.
Water sprinkler effect! There's another cool film that has some good film mixing, Hollowman where the sound starts off at centre front then moves outwards with nice centre back moment that gets the attention! Water is trickling all around you with droplets of water landing on the solid floors in the underground facility.
Let's go to work.
post #5 of 67Old02-18-2008, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Here is an update as you can see that is one JBL control 1 so far fitted to the back part of the ceiling area, I've marked out where I want them on the back part with masking tape and using a blue pencil, to outline the JBL speaker support fitting, and the holes for the screws.
Now once I've gotten them all fitted which should be sometime very late. Also I have some (cable ducting) not sure if can get the cables concealed within it, by to night, but I'll cut some up and use liquid nails to attach it to the ceiling, and corners.
I must say it does kinder work, as you can see; I'm kinder looking back, while one eye still focusing on the front screen action. I've only got the surrounds playing at the present time, with Star Wars episode 2 Attack of the Clones, while all the LCR and .1 are in mute mode.
Anyway back to the JBL control 1 surrounds installation.
01-30-2008, 09:48 PM
Well I need to take a slight break due to heath, wares my arms out it does, gravity is a bitch on the arms, but it feels good. Who knows I might even sweat a few ounces of my bodyweight.

As you can see there are now three JBL control 1 fitted, so far so good on the sound, as I mellow with Star Wars episode 2 Attack of Clones. Note the two (centre back surrounds) and the first (left side ceiling surround) I only have 7 more to fit.
Oh, there's just one other thing
I was jumping ahead of myself with the cable, wow I'm sweating on the back of the head here. I meant to say, the racks that I'll be buying around summertime, or maybe sooner, summer the very least, well if the racks are going at the back, then I'd hath to fit the cable ducting last.
JBL control 1 surrounds up and running 01-31-2008, 02:15 AM
post #6 of 67Old02-18-2008, 06:02 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Well its all about trial and error so if I can fork out for an electric drill next week, I'm get some timber to place over the (rear and sidewalls) to easily fit the speaker brackets, rather then drilling 40 holes in the walls, I can get around this with three holes max per sidewall and four on the back wall to hold small thin piece of timber.
Horizontal placement would give me the maximum head turning affect that I'm looking for. Where they are at present is all wrong, and like I said its trial and error. However it worked in the cinema at UCI, maybe not to the fullest for stereo surround films, I remember Jurassic park in dts was major disappointment, because all that was done at the time was re-plugging of the surrounds, that have been used for monaural effects with Dolby stereo A and SR type soundtracks.
Later they fitted a new batch of surrounds, to the sidewalls and rear wall.
Anyway I plan to fit the surround fixing bracket at height of 67 and then angle the surrounds downwards.
So in the worlds of the Blues Brothers
01-31-2008, 08:22 PM
Well in the past 20 minutes I've removed the side JBL control 1 and I'll stick them close to the sidewalls along with the centre back surround directional channels, until I get a sodden drill.
I must say I hate heights, I'm terrified of heights, standing a stool that slightly wobbles scares me to bits.
Oh well that's 5 hours wasted last night that I won't get back LOL.
I've got The X-Files fight the future (1999) playing at the moment as soon as I get the last two JBL control 1 down I'll try a new experiment, just for temporary use that is, until I get a sodden drill.
post #7 of 67Old02-18-2008, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Brought an electrical drill this morning from Wilkinson's and a few pieces of 2x1from Columbia timber yard.
Has you can see I've drilled and filled the hole with liquid nails and tapped in the wall plug, by around tomorrow the liquid nails would have hardened.

Screwed up and secured. Well that's the back part done, I've got two sides to do next, and oh that's going to be fun.
One JBL control 1 fitted. The wooden beam makes it easier to place the mounting bracket to the wood, rather than drilling dozens of holes into the wall.


Tightening up the nut, then it will be fitted to the mounting bracket and secularly tightened up.
02-06-2008, 02:45 PM


Yes I plan to hind the loudspeaker cable in some cable ducting that I'll place above the wooden beam. Anyway I've got two more to do this afternoon and I'm very limited on screws for the wooden beam, but not for mounting the JBL control 1, plenty of that size to go around.
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post #9 of 67Old02-18-2008, 06:39 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Will do I was just in the middle of post and had to respond to a pm and now LOL I've got to re-edit this one all over again LOL.
post #10 of 67Old02-18-2008, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Due to one of the sidewalls I've had to put of the final assembly of the JBL Control 1 surrounds to the left-hand-sidewall till tomorrow morning when I can re-drill new holes.
The rear wall and right-hand-sidewall is okay, all was going smoothly and I was egger to drill new holes around 5:30pm this evening, but I thought I'd delay it till the morning.
More pictures to follow tomorrow.
I'm also thinking about getting long board for the front LCR, a platform that will allow the JBL control 5 to sit on. This will reduce close contact vibration with the TV with centre channel, and even thou the TV is sitting on top of the mighty huge JBL sub, colour remains intact, due to the large magnet structure, stock of luck I would say.
02-07-2008, 12:04 AM
I couldn't resist taken a few pictures, I've just fixed the JBL Control 1 right-hand-sidewall surrounds only moments ago.
Wide angle view of JBL control 1 surrounds.

Underside view of JBL control 1 centre back surrounds.
Underside view of JBL control 1 right-hand-sidewall surrounds.
02-07-2008, 02:46 PM
This phase of sidewall and rear wall installation is now complete and I like it. Next is to attach the cable ducting to tidy up the loudspeaker cables that powers the surrounds.


02-15-2008, 09:44 PM
Since the idea or concept is still going to be small and since I started a comment in the room mode calculations thread, I thought I'd post the images here. Now you can see I have a (chimney breast) its 61 wide or 5 feet 1 if that helps. Now you can see a window on the side wall, that's got to be blocked off with MDF.
You can also see the gap where the (chimney breast) ends. Now that needs to be addressed with some timber and MDF to make it one whole length. This now narrows the width of the middle part of the room by 8 feet 11 or 107 if that helps.
The back part of the room I wont touch I'll leave it open has is, it's the main front area with the matching JBL control 5 LCR that worries me, because of the opening at the front.
But surly the bass at the back of the room along with a few mid range and few high frequencies might have issues, but no worse than some cinemas that' I've seen where there is a slight odd shape in one or two parts of it.
I want to get this done right given the slim poor man's budget I'm on, even if this takes a year, I want to get the shape done right, or near within small degree.
Note the main window, now that really needs to be blocked up with a few layers of MDF to reduced as much audible traffic sound and other sound from the outside. I don't care the window needs to be blocked.

Jbl Device Drivers


First I'll stick window blinds on the inside to give it the impression I've got the window blinds closed. Then layer it with MDF to reduce the sound level, as much as possible.
02-15-2008, 10:59 PM
Matters have now increased to critical; I don't know how to get around the left-hand-sidewall, which has the JBL control 1 surround placement. I've noticed if I where to place a JBL control 1 towards the or near the door, and no the door isn't the issue, it's the distance between the chimney breast, and the 18 ½ in slight depth.
Now I'd ether hath to power the JBL control 1 on the left-hand-sidewall with a stereo amplifier, rather then using it the other way around this way I can EQ the differences between the one that sticks out slight and the one that doesn't.
That now means I'd have to buy at least 4 more Alesis RA300 and one RA500 for sub bass. Oh this is going to be slow very slow, I doubt this will be finished till next year??
02-16-2008, 03:34 AM
Now this is want I like about the Empire Leicester square screen 1, the way the floor curves upwards and inwards across the front of the screen, stage area very nice on the eye when seated in front row.
I've kinder done some measurements and thou I can only do this at a very narrow elevation, otherwise I'd be too high and the sub bass along with the LCR JBL fronts will be too close to the ceiling.
I'll see what the guys at Columbia timbre think, I'd like that feature very much in the front, not sure at the moment about the [lights with coloured gels] I'll think of something small and affordable.
02-16-2008, 04:25 AM

Got it I've been keeping my mind active tonight, and I've hatched out this idea around the door entrance.
By placing some timbre to the walls and extending a short length across the door area, with MDF maybe something different to make it look as if its part of the room.
Rack placement everything except the amplifiers, those will be placed in the bedroom.
So I'll might be able to fit a professional rack 19, you know one of those Samson racks, into the space and with the flush look should look neat, hopefully.
post #11 of 67Old02-18-2008, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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I’m thinking getting true cinema seating because the reason I’ve always wanted the real McCoy in the home for many years, but I’ve always dreaded the cost of new cinema chairs.
So professional cinema seating it is used or new I don’t care, but the price has got to be right, one cinema seating as been around long before home cinema not to mention television. Cinema seating is the art of comport and thou I would like a [rocker seat] kinder like the ones used at the Empire Leicester square in screen 1, new or used doesn’t really matter.
One such site I found in Google image, well I can tell that’s in the USA, no matter I’ll keep fishing around tonight and give London a call Monday to get some information, I need to know where the top cinema UK cinema seating suppliers are in the United Kingdom.
http://www.preferred-seating.com/html/Auditorium4.html
I like this video with true cinema seating no imitations no couch slouching potato seats seen here.
Home Theater Seating, real movie chairs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcCwImkU_Pw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpwhOworwO0
02-16-2008, 08:18 PM
Doing some more re-thinking this evening does anyone know the cost of the framing for rack mounting because I might have a plan C solution for the living room. I’ve measured one item which has the maximum depth which is my Pioneer laserdisc player CLD-1750 same goes with Pioneer CLD-2950.
Depth of the wall area is 18” depth of Pioneer laserdisc player CLD-1750 with RCA phones attached is 17 ½ and that’s extremely tight. All the other equipment is well under that mounting depth.
I figure I could save a few Bob, if I had the mounting racks.
02-16-2008, 08:27 PM
I guess what might be everyone’s mind is? Is the name of the home cinema, well that’s a secret for now I already have a name for it.
post #12 of 67Old02-18-2008, 06:57 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Well, well my, my, my this took a bit of searching around this morning a few miss and hits and then I was pointed into the direction of [Studio Spares] UK where they have different framing.
I've ordered x2 24U framing and nuts screws and washes and plastic washers to isolate it from the framing. That should do it now, but I still need to get timbre and [MDF sheet a thin type] to place around the whole assembly to give it a flash and pucker look.
24U framing L rack
http://www.studiospares.com/Product.aspx?code=900076
Thanks to Rob and John, I couldn't get straight answer for the [Rack Ears] because it needs to be [1 to 1] if I want to drill holes into the sides of the Pioneer CLD-1750 laserdisc player and fix that into the framing neatly. Well I'm sure the problem will present itself sooner or later, I'll figure a way around that.
Today, 12:59 PM True cinema seating best deal

I've been phoning around this morning for true cinema seating and have got a deal or has Noel Edmonds, would say deal or no deal DEAL YES!
£10.00 per cinema seating for [Odeon Hille Premiere seating black] has seen in the picture here. I've ordered x6 plus I'll have to wait until there delivery van is in the area to make it easy, the seats are all ready assembled that's why I need to wait cost for delivery could be anywhere from £80.00 to £100.00 pounds.
So if anyone else on the forums would like to buy more of these seats I can pm you and I'll forward the contact because they have loads of these will sadly end up in skip and that would be a shame.
post #13 of 67Old02-19-2008, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Well its turned up but I think I need two more of the same for the back don't I, providing of course I want to use rack trays that slide outwards. I've been viewing the studio spares catalogue that arrived early this morning and saw the cost of rack trays around £22.00 pounds that isn't too bad providing I, don't go nuts and buy a whole bunch of sliding trays or I can then just buy a normal tray.
Other than that I'm pleased with the look of the racking plates, very pleased. In the meantime I'll keep the racking plates in the cardboard tube safely until I've got the timber frame fitted up along with flash virtual piece of thin MDF boarding.
post #14 of 67Old02-19-2008, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Well it's a different feeling when you get a product in your hands and yes I'm going to need at least two more of the same product for the front and four more of the same for the back otherwise I'm buggered to start this project off in the large room.
Nothing well start happen for at least a few more weeks until I'm ready to start placing down a flooring and I want to get that done within 24 hours even if it means working 24 hours myself around the clock, I've been known for staying up 4 days in a row before.
post #15 of 67Old08-12-2008, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Just finished fitting the remaining other JBL control 1 to the ceiling for matrix height surround as well as working with monaural surround. How that works is with the Pioneer VSP-200 other matrix functions called (Simulated and Studio) modes that work with sidewall surrounds when in this mode.
Simulated provides a bit involvement with the opening of InnerSpace (1987) as the liqueur is pored into glass and rather having it on left and right sidewall surrounds I can place a little bend overheard that works quite will.
Studio mode presents a lesser watery liqueur sound as that is mostly on left and right sidewall arrays.
Dolby stereo Pro-Logic even lesser in this mode as the sound is directed to the centre back surrounds as it would appear the surrounds are monaural.
Drilled into the ceiling with small pilot-holes to make the task easier and then mounted the brackets and attached the JBL control 1 up and tightened up the screw. Anyway I tidy up the dangling cables from the ceiling with cable trunking and need to get a few more lengths of it to finish it up as I ran out, its only £1.98p for 2.4m length, so what the heck.

post #16 of 67Old08-12-2008, 12:16 PM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Repositioned the arrangement of the JBL control 1 by placing some timbre slightly ahead by 18 re-spaced them out a bit and mirrored the difference on the opposite side redid the EQ and there's a noticeable difference in bass mid and high range, that's encompassed around the ears, rather than that common lose hole in the bucket sound that most home cinema users have.
Screwed up some timbre that took around 10 minutes piloted the holes with electric drill to make it easier to screw the back bracket to the timber. Re-wired the series of the cables to the surrounds, took bath because I was sweating like pig, came back in finished off a few more surrounds then settled down and relaxed with the surrounds only to see what else need attention.
Standing up and walking around it remains stable and uniform, just the way I want it. also I've removed the height surrounds only until I get another set of JBL control 1 as the other two are positioned on the sides around the seating area and slightly ahead of it as well.
The bridge sequence on the opening of Star Trek II: The Wrath of Khan has wonderful ambient low end rumble that doesn't draw attention to the surrounding JBL control 1, certain levels change in the pitch of the Enterprise's engines and when captain Kirk enters the bridge simulator, is heard with metallic like sound a few pressure hydraulic sounds are heard as well.
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What are the dimensions of the Control 1s? I just bought a pair of the Control 5's
post #18 of 67Old08-12-2008, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Here's the JBL control 1 and 5 pdf file specifications list.
JBL control 1
http://www-it.desy.de/fepos/download..L_Control1.pdf
JBL control 5
http://www.jblpro.com/products/insta..rol5/ctrl5.pdf
JBL also produced a JBL control 5 plus that is discontinued and used an 8 bass mid driver finding a picture of it is like looking for needle in haystack.
JBL also produced the JBL control 10 pictured here, it to is also discontinued.
Another part of the JBL control series was the JBL control 12 SR
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Con..rol%2012SR.pdf
JBL control 12SR-A
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Con..l%2012SR-A.pdf
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post #20 of 67Old08-14-2008, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom

Jbl Computer Speakers Drivers

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After slight few IR inferred sensor issues with the commands being sent from the remote control that activates a few functions on the Kenwood KRF-X9050D THX select. I was forced to open it up, to correct the minor difficulty.
I fought it might have been a dry joint on the one of the pins that connects from the IR to the PCB so there was no soldering involved. I took non-metallic plastic object and prodded around with the pins that connect to the IR sensor and PCB to see if anyone one of them was lose, none what so ever.
All that was needed was to push the IR sensor into proper position and that it.
I also cleaned around inside with dust that had settled onto the PCB with duster and vacuum cleaner. Also with the faceplate removed I polished it up to remove smudges and finger makes. Screwed the faceplate back on replaced the outer casing and plugged the cables back into proper operating function.
Oh, what a palaver!
Now that I'm relaxed with (Jean Michel Jarre) Rendezvous maybe I can get on with something.
post #21 of 67Old08-26-2008, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Received my third Alesis RA300 this afternoon and it's plugged up for the LFE.1 in (bridge mode) only.
Thou slightly behind and other three Alesis RA300 for basic 7.1 configuration isn't really enough for the requirements as I have a dozen ideas bouncing around in my head.
One thing is clearly evident and that's the clutter that's starting to build up! I really need to get those Samson 19 racks and do this with slight bit of professionalism and house all the equipment in the bedroom, with a set of holes drilled though the wall and the cables passed though it for a neat and tidy look.
I'm warming the third Alesis RA300 up the moment with my personal six-track Dolby stereo copy of RAMBO III (1988) that won't be realised on region 2 DVD till next year.
LCRS bass extension is still be directed to the Eltax A 12-R sub while the JBL 4645 calmly handles LFE.1 effects only.
The prison breakout where John Rambo fails on his first attempt has nice blend of isolated screen front information of rapid machinegun fire grade pin, retracting and being heard to screen left HF! Dialogue speech indelibility is terrific as well to help understand what is happen loud and clear thou not ear busting!
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Have you ever thought of building a fabric skinned soffit (more of a box) for your array of wall mounted speakers. You could even add a rope light on the top shining a glow on the ceiling?
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My place PROJECTS:Bacon Race, Ohio, Bethesda, Swizzle Stick, Summer Fun, Curve Frenzy, Staggered Walls, Rawlinsway, Lemonade,
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have you thought about getting a projector..big sound needs big picture!
post #27 of 67Old09-09-2008, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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What do I have in planed for the fronts and thou I’m waiting for the moment to get the tools out and start assembling the first phase of the baffle wall, with horizontal platform raised above the CRT so that it will be as free as possible from rattles from above? The CRT as to say put because it hardly rattles and once you know how to secure the inside can’t say top secret, but most common people would know how to tackle the issue.
I have few other JBL subs that can fitted to the sides of the main JBL sub bass for LFE.1 track and use the others for sub bass extension only of left and right in stereo thou with future very near future DCX2496 to filter off the highs with high-pass filter and feed with.
Left and right front to give some form of crazy bass
Left and right surrounds mixed into the signal and balanced to give same results
Centre will be sent to each channel and balanced differently to give smooth centre low end attack when need often with good Foley on some films you can feel something pressing on you, like when Jack is pushed agonist the walls of the lower deck in “Titanic” (1997) when a frantic father sees Jack and Rose with his son.
Or Indiana Jones punches in “Raiders of the Lost Ark” (1981) that violently hit you in the chest or other!
Once the platform is in place I can deal with the other issue that is to the left and side of the right, it needs blocking-up with timber frame and thick MDF screwed up tightly!
Once that issue has been dealt with I can move on with the front baffle with MDF cut to size and screwed into place with five-screen JBL in place thou the rest depends on more on amplifiers and additional Dolby stereo decoders to make it all work. Also another DCX2496 and these units thou affordable are not cheap if you happen to be poor.
As for the whole rack system in the room, bad idea it would be noisy and it needs to be placed in bedroom in racks 19” for that professional finish. a few holes drilled in the wall and all the loudspeaker cabling ran though and passed into cable truncking that is already fitted around the (picture rail).
This needn’t cost silly amounts of money and when the time is right for simplistic affordable video digital ready projector, then so be, it needn’t has to cost silly money, this isn’t the Empire Leicester Square its home and if I want to see professional high grade digital projection thou I prefer conventional 35mm but if digital happens to be playing so be it.
I can’t put a date on as and when I’m going to just go out of the blue size up the timbre and MDF and get it delivered it takes (funding) first and other properties as well!
post #28 of 67Old09-11-2008, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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The Pris Attack! Blade Runner 1982 International Theatrical Cut
I've set-up one of two extra JBL Control 5 as pre-five screen fronts a few more amplifiers and Dolby stereo decoders to make it fully functional into two system playback mode for baby boom and five screen discrete matrix that derives information from the centre channel thus making it more clearer as well as extracting part of the half panned left and right information and sending into the (two inner channels, left-centre right-centre.
Tonight's first test is with the (1982) futuristic nightmarish thriller Blade Runner International Theatrical Cut after testing a few scenes out with opening sequences and The Pris Attack where Deckard is taken by surprise only to finish her off with shot to the stomach that resulted in a high pitch frenzy of screaming! A second shot reverberated outwards from taking individual tests of LCR only.
Tested left front with (CR muted) checked SPL db and was satisfied with the improvement I made.
Switching to right front with (LC muted) checked the levels of low while midrange and high HF have a different sound, noted the bass level checked it off the list and moved over to centre.
(Muting LR) while listening carefully to the centre action of her scream and the echo that's around it and other tiny little details, until Deckard fired another shot that was bit more punchier and milder at the listen area with mild scary sound that rolled over my chest.
Playing the whole scene with LCR and sub bass extension and the LFE.1 track escalated it higher to a disturbing almost sickening point, its not cherry film its fairly violent, but that's the whole point of the story.

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post #29 of 67Old09-26-2008, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Extended the width of the sidewall surrounds with 4 foot spacing between each one of them, results wow! it totally encompassed with greater uniformity. The bell dong from Underworld (2003) where Seline, puts a few bullets into the werewolf has the bell dong up front then pans to the surrounds with smoothness. A few minor changes in the EQ for the sidewall surrounds was made to get the right amount low end need.
Walking steadily around the room while listening to Star Trek the motion picture original (1979) laserdisc to DVD-RW with only the surrounds playing there is minimal change in the sound, with Jerry Goldsmith’s score “The cloud” THX on/off it’s as if I’m warring “headphones” like a cinema, only in smaller room.
There maybe a few cables dangling in the picture but this only to get my bearings, before I start knocking up a small false upper wall to the rear left, the timber will be taken down and fitted with new timber and placed inside the a few inches so that I can place wall with flush look.
I’m also considering repainting the wall, but that won’t help the small reflection and thin layer of absorbent material attached to the walls though the use of wall plugs and just simply screwed up will be better option, as to when I get around to this depends on how hard I save because timber is few bob, and it soon mounts up in cost. Paint, well I’ll repaint the wall a different colour a kinder of warmer colour or I may just go with neutral texture kinder like the Empire, can’t be that hard.
The centre back has remained unchanged because this placement offers the tightest centre back possible without the hole in sound image.
post #30 of 67Old09-27-2008, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter


Location: Bournemouth, Dorset, United Kingdom
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My dad brought around a few chisels so that I switch the door around so that it opens in the opposite direction. The door needs a clean up that I'll get around to sometime next week with rub down and new piece of door beading. For the meantime its held in place with two screws no chance of falling off.
Question is does it improve the JBL sound hmm, now that is the question?
My dad started the first part just to make sure I haven't forgotten then left me to finish it off. its only taken about 2 hours to do. This is the first step to revamping the room once the door is all cleaned up I'll move on to the next phase.
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